VOGUE SPRING 2017 Review

September 2016, SS17 by Emily Farra

Embellishments are central to Sally LaPointe’s brand DNA, and her Spring ’17 collection was full of them: feathers, sequins, beads, and embroidery decorated everything from a chiffon button-down to the finale look, a chrome-sequined dress with a leather corset and panels of black plumes. “Every single fabric you see here was custom—I hand-drew all of the [embellishment] patterns,” she said before the show. “For the first time, I feel like my hands were really in it.”

Sketching the intricate beading on a military jacket or arranging a layout of sequins might have helped LaPointe take her mind off the turbulence in the world, too, if only for a moment. “There’s so much commotion going on around all of us, so I decided to really focus wholeheartedly on my craft,” she said. “I just wanted to make a really honest, beautiful collection and let the work stand for itself.” That was apparent from the get-go, with body-conscious pencil skirts, bra tops, and camisoles dripping in sparkle and fringe. Outerwear is a strong suit for LaPointe, but she kept it light for Spring with long trenches and dusters in sheer chiffon. They didn’t have the same impact as her signature peacoats and capes, but a cool, oversize white twill trench looked destined for Gigi or Bella Hadid’s closet.

If the collection seemed too “evening” at first, it’s worth noting that occasion-wear is a big business for LaPointe. However, the show could have used a few more day-to-night, covered-up looks—there was a lot of midriff and a lot of leg. By the time the models took their finale lap, you wouldn’t have known LaPointe was listening to Johnny Cash while she designed it all. “He took his broken heart and let it feed his creativity,” she said. “You have a decision—you can either let it affect you, or let it fuel you.” She isn’t the only designer trying to find some clarity in the maelstrom this season; we’re sensing it will become a bigger theme, with less hard-and-fast trends and more emotional, human touches.